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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.